Dates of visit:
April 29, 2007 &
May 8, 2007

We rate this trip a:

Trip Highlights:
 Revisit friends
 Village Zymna Voda
 Arsenal Museum
 Capital of Kyiv
 Kyiv Churches
 Kyiv Soviet Past
 Walking Kyiv
 Ethnic Dining

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*** L'viv Region ***
*** Ukrainian Food, Drink, and Friends ***
*** Village of Zymna Voda ***
*** Muzhylovychi Memorial ***
        Map of Ukraine
        Travel Route
        Ukrainian Food, Drink, and Friends
               Site Gallery - Ukrainian Food, Drink and Friends
        Village of Zymna Voda
               Site Gallery - Village of Zymna Voda
        Muzhylovychi Memorial
               Site Gallery - Muzhylovychi Memorial
Ukrainian Food, Drink, and Friends

Typical meal Ukrainian cuisine ... Ukrainian dishes show a sophisticated simplicity based on pleasing combinations of fresh, pickled, and smoked ingredients. While cooking techniques are not complicated, dishes may contain a great number of ingredients and unusual combinations, such as shuba salad which combines pickled herring and beets. Food is neither highly spiced nor bland, but skillfully seasoned to perfection.

Bread, is of course the mainstay of the Ukrainian diet. The country’s reputation as the “breadbasket of Europe” is well deserved. The French writer Honore de Balzac, who lived in Ukraine for four years, counted 77 different ways of preparing bread. It is such a central part of the diet here that there is a custom to give honored guests and departing or arriving travelers the gift of a loaf of bread and salt. This tradition is still used in welcoming ceremonies for dignitaries and other important persons.

Borshch is certainly the national dish of Ukraine, even making its appearance on the menus of Chinese and Italian restaurants in Kyiv. This uniquely Ukrainian soup has been adopted by other countries in the region, but as recently as 45 years ago it could not even be found in restaurants in other Soviet republics. The many versions of borshch served throughout the country reflect the individuality of Ukrainians as well as their ingenuity. The beet-based soup can contain as many as 20 different ingredients, depending on the season, region, and of course, personal preference of the cook. It can be meatless or prepared from a rich meat stock and contain either beef or smoked pork.

The availability of ingredients for traditional cooking are often dependent on the season, so most varieties of vegetables sometimes make their appearance in certain dishes in their pickled form. You also might find that certain dishes listed on a menu might not be available at certain times of year. Salads are very common, but rather than being lettuce-based, combinations of fresh, cooked, and preserved vegetables may be mixed with meat, cheese, or fish.

Varenyky Varenyky (Polish pierogis) are dumplings made from boiled or fried dough, resembling ravioli without red sauce. They can be filled with meat, potatoes, cabbage, and sometimes mushrooms for as an entrée ... or sour cherries or sweetened cottage cheese and raisins as a dessert. Any kind can be accompanied by butter or sour crème. The word holubtsi (Polish golabki) can be translated into “little pigeons,” but really has nothing to do with fowl of any kind. They are cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice or buckwheat and often covered with a thin tomato sauce.

There are many different kinds of pastries and cakes, usually less sweet than they are made outside of continental Europe. A tort Kyivskiy is a local specialty, made of layers of crumbly raised wafers, hazelnuts, and it even comes in its own special green box.

Beer Ukrainian Beer ... for visitors from some countries, it is a novelty just to be able to enjoy a soft alcoholic beverage in public places such as sidewalks or parks. For Ukrainians, this is simply a normal and common summer ritual when the weather warms up.

Pivo (beer) is not really popular with women, but some men will enjoy various brands marked mitsne (strong) with alcohol contents of around 7%. While Ukraine does not have the history of beer making that Germany or Belgium boast of, it is still a popular drink and developing craft. There are several major beer brewing companies in Ukraine: Obolon, Slavutich, Chernigivsky, and L’vivskiy (left). If you are at all familiar with the different major cities or regions of Kyiv, you can easily tell just by the names where these brands are produced. Ukrainians consume about half as much beer as Western Europeans, but from an economic perspective the market has been growing steadily over the last few years and is currently the second larges among CIS countries.

The major producers have been introducing various products in the last few years, labeling them “premium,” “light,” “ice,” or a number of other variations of usual lager beers. More recently, unfiltered, dark, and “red” beers have made their appearance, and a few pubs around town brew their own ales in-house. Bitters and stouts have not come on the scene yet, but it may only be a matter of time.

Olesya Friends ... one may always count on long-enduring friendships and cordial hospitality. The Ukrainian table is always set to extend the best the house has to offer.

Our gallery below demonstrates the range of acquaintances and the settings in which these bonds are formed.

Site Gallery - Ukrainian Food and Drink
Typical Breakfasts
Breakfast - fish Breakfast - liver Breakfast - omelet
Typical Main Meals & Snacks
Main Meal Main Meal Main Meal
Main Meal Main Meal Main Meal
Main Meal Main Meal Main Meal
Ukrainian Desserts
Ukrainian Desserts Ukrainian Desserts Ukrainian Desserts
Cordial Friends and Hosts
Petrivskyi family Petrivskyi family Petrivskyi family
Petrivskyi family Petrivskyi family Petrivskyi family
How Dinners Are Hosted
Hosted dinner Hosted dinner Hosted dinner
Village of Zymna Voda

Zymna Voda Location of Zymna Voda

Zymna Voda ... the author was born in the Village of Zimna Woda, Poland (present day Zymna Voda, Ukraine) before the start of WWII. He left the village (about) the year 1943 during the mass exodus from the ravages of war. He returned to visit this village in 2001, 2002, and 2004 as part of the tracing of his roots.

During my 2001 visit he met, and became good friends with, a number of local Ukrainian people who have helped him immensely in his ancestral search. His family has been repeatedly asked to make a return visit just for the sake of a reacquainting old friendships.

This particular trip (2007) was about 12 days in duration. The author was invited to stay at a local village home and to use that home as a base for exploring nearby attractions, the City of Lviv and the capital of Ukraine, Kyiv.

The gallery of images below is a brief testament to the sights encountered in Zymna Voda. Assisted ably by his host and hostess, and their families, and with the added convenience of many drivers and escorts, the author spent our time fully engrossed in the Ukrainian people, their traditions, foods and hospitality.

Site Gallery - Village of Zymna Voda
Zymna Voda Train Station
Near Train Station Near Train Station Near Train Station
Zymna Voda Orthodox Church
Orthodox Church Orthodox Church Orthodox Church
Village of Zymna Voda
Zymna Voda Zymna Voda Zymna Voda
Zymna Voda Zymna Voda Zymna Voda
Muzhylovychi Memorial

Muzhylovychi Church - 2002 Münchenthal (Muzylowice) and the Roman Catholic Church ... The importance and significance of Muzhylovychi is that it is the ancestral home of the author's grandparents on the maternal side … dating as far back as probably 1776. Author's mother was a Lautsch, whose father (author's grandfather) George was born in Munchenthal in 1869 and her mother (author's grandmother) Margaret was from nearby Ebenau (another German Colony near Grodek Jagiellonski.) Both lived in Munchenthal until about 1895. So it is obvious that the author has a strong ancestral family connection to this village, church and cemetery ... for it is almost certain some of his ancestors are buried in this cemetery.

The village of Muzylowice was bestowed upon the brothers Herbert and Frydrysz Fullenstein on July 22, 1386. Muzylowice remained in the hands of this family until the late 16th century. In 1604, Staniuslaw Stadnicki bequeathed Muzylowice to a Jesuit collegiate in Lwow. Muzylowice belonged to the parish of Bruchnal, but at the same time, it became an important economic, administrative, and religious centre of the Jesuit Society.

The Jesuit chapel in Muzylowice existed from at least 1649 and was found on the upper floor of the wooden Jesuit manor house. In 1761, a new chapel was built in front of the manor house. It was a small brick structure, covered with white roofing tile, decorated with a bell tower. The Lwow Collegium was officially closed by the Austrian Crown in 1773, and with it the Jesuit estate of Muzylowice.

The first group of German colonists to Muzylowice included families from Mähren (Moravia) who settled along a road called “Mährisch Seite.” This name even today is still used by the Ukrainians in the village over 60 years after the last German family left! Austrian Emperor Josef II officially established a colony of German Roman Catholic settlers in 1783-1784 on the land of the former Jesuit estate. The new colony was officially called Muzylowice Kolonia, but was always known as Münchenthal to the colonists. Including the original 10 families, it now totalled 40 families who were given land totalling 660 Joch or about 20 acres per family. In the first few years, a school and a Roman Catholic Church were erected with a German teacher and pastor.

Although the church in Muzylowice belonged to the parish of Bruchnal, as of 1784 separate Roman Catholic registers were kept for Muzylowice. In 1785 and 1787, two successive bishops devised separate plans to reorganize the diocese and establish Muzylowice as a new parish, but neither plan was implemented at the time. Diocesan records from 1814 mention a brick church, still found in good condition. The Muzylowice place of worship under the invocation of St. Anthony of Padua was confirmed in 1846. Its modest furnishings consisted of: old altar, few paintings, baptismal font, pulpit, pews and a chalice originating from Jaworów.

In 1849, the present day church building was financed and erected by our ancestors and bore the invocation of “St. Anthony of Padua.” The name was changed to the “Visitation of our Blessed Mary” during the consecration of the church building in 1854. The parishioners funded the altar in 1871. It was not until 1887 that the Muzylowice chaplainry was finally transformed into a parish. The tower was repaired in 1891. Towards the end of 1914, the occupying Russian army plundered the church and the presbytery property. The priest had earlier hidden valuable church objects and documents. In the years 1916 and 1917, the bells were removed for the needs of the Austrian army. The colonists purchased two replacement bells in 1925. The roof was also repaired in the late 1920’s. Visits from other surrounding German Catholic colonies were commonplace.

Muzhylovychi Church - 2007 With very short notice, most of the German colonists left the village in January 1940 and were repatriated to central Poland. Those remaining left during the next few years. In 1943, the parish books were confiscated by the German authorities and delivered to the Archivamt in Lwów. In 1944, a small band of Ukrainian Insurgent Army (UPA) burnt the now Polish-only parish church and on April 15, 1945 the last pastor left the church for good. Ornaments of the church were deposited in the church at Rodatycze. After the war under the Soviet Regime, the church served as a warehouse for grain, and later as a depository of artificial fertilizers that contributed greatly to the deterioration the church building. Today, it has been transformed from a curiosity to a source of hope for the Ukrainian villagers that live there.

Muzhylovychi Memorial - 2007In the fervent hope that the early German Colonists of Munchenthal would not be forgotten, a memorial was erected in the abandoned cemetery, funded completely through donations from Canada, Germany and the United States. Commenced in 2004 and completed in 2006, we came to see first-hand the completed work.

Text Sources: Muzhylovychi (Münchenthal) Church Restoration Project ... Munchenthal German Catholic Cemetery Memorial Project.

Site Gallery - Muzhylovychi Memorial
To Muzhylovychi
To Muzhylovychi To Muzhylovychi To Muzhylovychi
To Muzhylovychi To Muzhylovychi To Muzhylovychi
Visitation of Our Blessed Mary Church
Church Church Church
To Old Cemetery
To cemetery To cemetery To cemetery
Old Cemetery
Old cemetery Old cemetery Old cemetery
The Memorial
The Memorial The Memorial The Memorial
The Memorial The Memorial The Memorial
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